Pilgrimage to Beauport Abbey, Brittany

Pink hydrangeas grace the interior walls of the abbey.

Beauport Abbey sits nestled into the bay of Paimpol, a sheltered stretch of beach curving inward from the Goëlo coast, in Brittany’s Côtes d’Armor region. Sheep graze in the fields that skirt the abbey, and a coastal path runs along the seawall, built to protect the domaine from the marshlands that separate it from the sea.

Its location, only metres from the ocean, is well defined by its Latin name, Bellus Portus.

This national historical monument is one of the most stunning examples of religious architecture to visit in Brittany.

The medieval abbey was founded in 1202 by Count Alain de Goëlo, and remained a haven for the monastic order of the Prémontrés for six centuries. The main part of the abbey was built in the 13^th and 14^th centuries during prosperous times for the order; what remains of the church today is just its shell, gracefully draped with climbing ivy. Colourful pink hydrangeas grow amongst the gothic stone columns, built in the special rose-coloured stone that Brittany is famous for.

A 15th century cloister leads to the rest of the abbey, which was built in the 17^th and 18^th centuries.  The salle capitulaire, or chapter room, and the Salle au Duc are two fine examples of renaissance architecture.  Of the kitchen and refectory, again only their walls remain, but the view from the refectory literally takes your breath away.

The view from the abbey's refectory opens onto the bay near Paimpol. 

The stone arches that once served as windows in the dining area look down on the abbey gardens. At the end of the closed walls of the gardens stretches the sparkling blue water of the channel, framed in the distance by the rocky outcrops that form the bay.

Over the centuries the abbey thrived economically and spiritually, until changes brought about by the Revolution caused it to be sold as national property. In 1870 it was officially classified as a historical monument according to the act instigated by the 19^th century writer, Prosper Mérimée, who dedicated his services to the protection of patrimony.

Since 1993, Beauport Abbey has been under the protection of the national coast conservation group, who bought the domaine, and have since undertaken the preservation of the land surrounding the abbey as well as the restoration of its buildings.

Although the abbey is easily accessible by car, a footpath that hugs the coast attracts the attention of hikers, their curiosity peaked by the site of the ancient stone buildings just minutes off the trail.

In fact, hikers can follow this coastal path, known throughout France as a GR (Grand Randonnée), for miles. The trails are well marked and can be followed in sections according to the whim of the traveller. Weather permitting, it is one of the best ways to see the region, whose maritime history and lore form the basis of its cultural identity.

 Along with the visit of the abbey, various cultural activities are offered year round, giving adults and children alike the opportunity to discover the history and beauty of the site.

  

An eyeful of Garlic & Basil in Tours, France

Foire à l'ail et au Basilic

Every year on the 26th of July, vendors come to the city of Tours in the Loire Valley to sell their garlic and basil.

It's a tradition that dates back to medieval times, and one that still brings visitors from afar who come to take advantage of the extraordinary selection of basil plants or to stock up on garlic for the winter.

Whether a first-time visitor or an annual attendee, the sight of a sea of green spreading out from one end of the Place du Marché to the other is always amazing. Basil plants adorn the pavement like a soft, plush carpet, stretching as far as the eye can see. And not just one variety of the plant, but as many as a dozen different varieties are available to the eager, if not necessarily discerning palate.

Green, miniature-leafed plants contrast with the purple peppered basil, while gargantuan-leafed plants (whose pungent smell makes you feel like you are in a jar of pesto) contrast with other different varieties, such as Thai, cinnamon or anise.

Whatever your desire, you are sure to find your happiness.

Lining the street on either side of the 'green carpet', market stalls overflow with more selections of garlic than you knew existed. While still widely popular, the traditional white bulbs are almost overshadowed by the finer, pink and purple varieties, rendered even more desirable in their tressed form. Onions, shallots, and other artisan products are also available. Further along there are stalls offering regional wines and wine-tasting, honey & honey products such as pain d'épice or mead, spices, and more.

In case you haven't eaten, or the sight and smell of all these good things makes you hungry, several vendors offer regional dishes such as andouillettes and frites.

Then, because this is a "fete" after all (the Foire is always held on July 26, which is the Feast of Ste. Anne), there is some musical entertainment. This year, a young group of musicians played at one end of the market, drawing a crowd around them to watch and listen to their lively rhythms. "Little Swing" featured a violinist who really knew how to swing and get people's toes tapping. The spotlight bounced around amongst the different members of the band - guitar, double bass, percussion - and many bystanders were interested in buying one of the CDs the group had digitally mastered.

With the sun shining, lively music in the air, and good produce to indulge in, the Foire à l'ail et au basilic is an annual event to aim for, if you're planning a holiday in the Loire Valley next summer.